I remember this day like yesterday. We had been surfing this perfect longboard spot for the majority of @the.drawout retreat and wanted to check out a punchier left hand point, a trek away from our Villa.
Sneaking away to surf an empty wave and scoping out a new spot is always an exciting feeling. Grab the gear, pack the truck, all bodies in and go! On the drive to explore the sights:)
Even though this wave wasn’t cranking to it’s true potential, when we arrived, we jumped in and surfed our hearts out until we felt filled to the brim. Rejoicing in it’s novelty.
Something new is always nice and life stays interesting with unexpected twists and turns. It’s important to have a plan for your ultimate goals, but more important to stay present in the everyday flow. Don’t miss the best opportunities that appear right in front of you because you’re too busy staring into the horizon of what could be, or ‘should’ be.
Release the expectations that create the pressure. Practice and have fun!
You know the saying, grass is always greener.. but it’s more important to stay awake to smell the roses under your nose. Forget the fomo and put the necessary planning into your trips to ensure you don’t get stuck when the waves are pumping.
Some go-to saviours that I always make sure to pack in my board bag for every trip:
1. My fave @aftanassurf boards
2. Extra set of fins
3. Fin key
4. Bar of Wax w/ wax comb
5. Quick fix kit w/ UV curing resin
6. Extra leash
Love what you ride?
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